Tour No. 3. Szamárhegy (Donkey Hill) Tour

Length of the tour: can be done within 1‐2 hours leisurely
Area of the tour: tour diverse with uphill parts, slightly more difficult, but can be achieved by wheelchair and pram

Our third tour starts from Lázár cár tér (Tzar Lazar Square) a minute walk from Fő tér (Main Square). A simple iron cross on top of a beautifully carved Corinthian pillar originating from 1778 stands on the corner of the square. The square named after Tzar Lazar was formed in the 1970’s when some of the Danube bank houses were demolished here. Formerly the memorial cross stood in a tight alley, the cross was erected in the place of a small wooden church where the Serbian refugees fleeing here from the Turks buried the body of their sacred hero, Tzar Lazar until returning to their homes.

Gőzhajó utca (Gőzhajó Street) you will arrive at Rab Ráby tér  (Rab Ráby Square) which conserved the former signs of farming activities. Every house here has a wine cellar called “kacsárnya” whose gates can still be detected on several houses, besides in the middle of the square there is a pump‐well belonging to the 19th century Szentendre townscape. A further interesting piece of information is that the house under No. 1 used to be the home of Mátyás Rábi commissioned by Joseph II. to examine the abuses of the magistrate. Our famous author Mór Jókai used his memoires to write his novel “Rab Ráby”.

The next phase of the tour is along Bartók Béla utca (Bartók Béla Street) ‐ one of the many streets starting from the square towards the former quarter of the „Dalmatians”. After a short climb choose the right one of the two streets going in two separate ways and you will reach a Memorial Cross erected by the tanners arriving here from Bosnia in the second half of the 18th century. The Rococo iron cross on a simple stone pillar stands at one of the most beautiful spots of Szentendre from where you get a wonderful panorama of the Danube, the Szentendre‐Island across, the downtown houses and the Preobrazsenszka Church built at the very foot of the hill.

Szamárhegy (Donkey Hill) is one of the most interesting quarters of Szentendre’s picturesque parts. The Dalmatians settling down here built houses which cling onto the hill like swallow nests, reminiscent of the structure of their little villages near the Adriatic Sea, according to Pál Voit.

Those wishing to get to the church directly or to Bogdányi utca (Bogdányi Street) parallel with the Danube and also wish to get to know the secret face of Szentendre in the meantime should go down on one of the staired alleys opening from Angyal utca (Angyal Street). Those who feel like walking on should stroll all along this street and find the Cross of Winegrowers at the corner of Dézsma uca (Dézsma Street).

Good to know! Wine making has had a long‐standing tradition in Szentendre for centuries. The settlers (Serbians, Dalmatians and Greeks) coming here after the Turkish invasion started to make red wine and grew vine on more than 2500 acres as well as introduced the press and other so far unknown procedures.

Just around the corner, after a few steps on Ady Endre utca (Ady Endre Street) you will catch the first glimpse of an open‐air statue park founded in 1978 and showing the works of Jenő Kerényi. The most interesting piece is an enlarged stone version of the artist’s copper statue of 1972 called “Carrying away Europe”. The statue of a sitting old man contemplating the surroundings is just across the street. This statue of 1977 made by Imre Varga depicts the painter Béla Czóbel in the very spot of his former studio in a former apple garden.

Turning back towards the city centre you will find the Régi Művésztelep (Old Artists’ Colony) under No.51 Bogdányi utca (Bogdányi Street); it was here under the age‐old trees that the first artists moving here founded the Association of Szentendre Painters in 1928.

Bogdányi utca (Bogdányi Street) you will arrive at Vujicsics Tihamér tér (Vujicsics Tihamér Square) at the Preobrazsenszka Church – seen from above from the Cross of Tanners – built between 1741 and 1746. The old iconostas and furnishing of the church is the most beautiful among the Szentendre churches, however it can only be visited once in a year on 19th August on the name day of the church.

Afterwards choose the Szerb utca (Szerb Street) which leads you to the newest cultural institution of Szentendre: the building of the MűvészetMalom (Art Mill). Besides setting up exhibitions for local artists, this museum at No.32 Bogdányi Street also organises national and international events joining the blood circulation of contemporary art and boasts several internationally appreciated exhibitions.

After visiting the actual exhibition it is only a few steps more and you get back to Lázár cár tér (Tzar Lazar Square). If you still wish to go on walking and exploring the town we recommend strolling along the Danube Promenade. On the one hand there is fantastic view of the Danube and the Szentendre Island, and on the other hand it offers several special places for the nature‐lovers as well as those wishing to indulge in culinary treats.